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Technical Section

1. A FEW TRICKS OF THE TRADE - Pro Remedies The Pros Know

Terminal Protection -Over time, battery terminals can corrode, causing poor contact with your connections. This can lead to an eventual dead battery and a long walk home if it isn't treated properly. A mixture of baking soda and water neutralizes the corrosion-causing acid ensuring a good contact between the battery cable and post. Don't stop with your quad as this tip also works on your car, truck and lawn mower

Carburetion Collaboration -
With spring in full effect, the temperatures will be rising soon. This means the air is becoming less dense and your quad may need to be rejetted. With the cooler air temperatures of winter, the machine requires additional fuel, which means a larger main jet. The opposite is true for warmer temperatures. The air is thin and less fuel is required to obtain the perfect air-fuel mixture.

Revive Your Worn Pegs -
Unless you're using a pair of stainless aftermarket footpegs, you will notice the sharp edges wear down and will dull over time. There's a simple solution to bring the pegs back to life and keep your boots firmly planted with no slipping. All you need is a metal file and a few minutes of manual labor to hone the teeth of those worn pegs. This can be repeated a couple of times before the purchase of a new set of pegs becomes necessary.

Repack For Improved Power -
You may like that loud rumble coming from your exhaust, but a poorly packed silencer does in fact rob horsepower. A properly packed silencer will keep the noise to a minimum and allow the exhaust to exit faster with less turbulence. As more air flows through your engine the potential for more horsepower increases. Another tip to remember is wrapping safety wire around the packing to keep it securely placed around the exhaust baffle during reinstallation.

Often Overlooked -
While performing routine maintenance on your quad, don't forget to remove and lubricate your swingarm pivot bolt regularly. Applying a generous amount of grease to the needle bearings in which the bolt rests can add many rides to the life of the bearings and bolt. It's much easier and cheaper-bearings and bolt can cost in excess of $50-to grease it regularly than replacing it. Also, if it isn't greased periodically, it can be difficult to remove once rust begins to build up on it.

Tower's Tape Tip -
After installing an axle, it's a good idea to wrap the locking axle nuts with tape. This will keep the nut snugly secured together and prevent the axle from coming loose. This often goes unnoticed until it's too late and damage has already been done. Learning this lesson the hard way can cost hundreds of dollars, so better safe than sorry. Tape it up!

Gusset Before You Paint -
There's nothing like the glistening sight of a freshly powdercoated frame. Before you pick out a color, you may want to add some additional reinforcement to the weak points of your frame. Do it yourself or contact a fabricator with knowledge of your specific model to eliminate the guesswork. The experts at Lone Star (www.lsracing.com) have kits precut and ready to weld for most applications.

Braking News -
Water and grime are the No. 1 killers of drum brakes. When replacing the pads on drum brakes, apply a thin film of waterproof grease to the dust seal. This will add an additional layer of protection against the brake-eating elements. Keeping the drums clean and dry will not only guarantee a safe stop, it will also save some dough.

More Zip-Tie Tips - Zip-ties can be used literally for hundreds or maybe thousands of small fixes for your ATV. So it's obviously useful to keep a few around at all times when you're out riding. If you're out on the trail and you lose a bolt from your plastic, whip out a trusty ole zip-tie and secure your plastic until you can replace the bolt. It's saved us on countless occasions and it could save your ride as well.

last updated - 2009-04-16 07:53:05

2. AIR FILTER MAINTANENCE

The condition of your air filter directly affects the performance of your ATV. The dirtier the filter, the more it robs horsepower from your motor. Running a dirty filter also greatly increases the risk of sucking dirt and debris into your motor's internals which can cause a number of problems in your fuel-delivery system and greatly increase the wear and tear on your piston rings, cylinder and valves.

Once again, this eats away at even more horsepower in the long run. The best practice is to clean your filter often and well. How often? We suggest cleaning your filter after every weekend of riding, and even swapping out a clean filter for every day of riding if the conditions are extremely dusty. If you wait for your filter to look like a dirt clod, it'll be too late. So how do you clean it well? Follow these steps and we'll get your air cleaner well, cleaner.

Skill Level
Beginner [1/5]

Tools Required
Tools to remove filter (depends on ATV), clean shop rags, spray-on degreaser (Maxima or 409), bucket (1-5 gal.), laundry detergent or dish soap, air filter oil, waterproof grease (press-on filters only), Ziploc bags (gallon size)

Time
Less than 30 minutes, allow 24 hours for drying

Summary
Cleaning the air filter is the most important maintenance job you can perform on your ATV, with a few steps, we'll try to make it the easiest job, too.

Tip
It's a good idea to have at least two to three spare filters for your ATV, that way you can easily swap out a dirty one when you're out for the weekend, and it's easier and more efficient to clean a batch of filters all at once.

1 Remove the air filter from your ATV. Make sure to cover the intake with a rubber glove, plastic bag or clean shop rag to keep foreign particles out while you're cleaning.

2 If your filter has an inner support or frame, remove it before cleaning. Be careful not to tear the filter when extracting the frame.

3 If you've got some heavy dirt buildup, lightly brush it off with a soft-bristled brush. You want to use a flicking motion and be extra careful not to grind any dirt into the filter.

4 Spray down the dirty filter with cleaner to begin breaking down the oil and grime. We suggest using Maxima air filter cleaner, but you can also use a degreaser like 409. If the old filter oil is really stubborn, a mild parts cleaning solvent will help break it down. Let the cleaner soak for about 5-10 minutes.

5 Using a faucet or garden hose (hot water works best), rinse out the heavy dirt and oil. Make sure you only rinse from the inside out; rinsing the other way can lodge grit farther into your filter. Rinse until clear water comes out of the filter.

6 Fill up a bucket with hot soapy water; we suggest using either a laundry detergent or dishwashing soap. Submerge your filter in the bucket and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes.

7 For K&N or gauze filters: Dunk the filter in the bucket a dozen times to help clean out the grit and oil. If needed, use the soft-bristled brush again to flick out the really stubborn dirt. For foam filters: Wash out the filter by hand and be sure not to tear it as you're working it over.

8 Using the same method as before, rinse your filter again. Be sure to flush out all the soap from your filter.

9 Take a minute to look over your filter. If there's old oil or traces of dirt left in the filter, you'll need to repeat the washing process. It's very important that you get out as much of the oil as possible. If you let it go, the old oil will become even harder to wash out in the future and will start to restrict the airflow of your filter. K&N filters should be light gray (no pink) and foam filters should be back to their original color.

10 Dry your filter. Foam filters should be compressed to remove excess water. Don't wring out a foam filter, you'll risk tearing it. Both types of filters should be set in a clean, well-ventilated area to dry for at least 24 hours. The drying process is very important because any moisture left in the filter will keep the new oil from correctly absorbing into the filter.

11 Oil your filter. K&N or gauze filter: These types of filters should be oiled with K&N (or comparable) aerosol oil. Lightly coat the filter up and down each pleat, holding the can about six inches away. After one pass, go back and touch up any spots you may have missed. Let the filter sit for about one hour then apply a second coat of oil. After the second coat, your filter should be solid red, if there are any light spots, reapply oil as needed. Make sure to wipe any excess oil and overspray.

Foam filter: Put your filter in a gallon-size Ziploc bag and pour in a generous amount of oil. We suggest using Maxima FFT (Foam Filter Treatment). Seal up the bag and start massaging the oil into the filter. Gently work the filter until you have an even shade; dark spots mean you've got too much oil on that area, light spots mean not enough. When you have an even coat, remove the filter from the bag, wipe off any excess and let it sit overnight before reinstalling. Leftover oil can be poured back into the bottle to reuse.

12 Clean out your airbox. Any dirt left in the airbox will just be sucked up in your filter the minute you start your ATV. Wiping it out with a damp rag should do the trick; just make sure the intake is covered to keep any dirt from falling in. If it's really dirty, it may be easier to take the airbox off the machine and wash it out with soap and water.

13 Reinstall your filter. Clamp-on filter: Make sure both the mounting flange on your filter and ATV are clean before installation. Don't apply grease to clamp-on style filters. Also, don't overtighten the clamp, especially if your ATV has a plastic flange on the airbox. Overtightening can warp or break the flange, causing a catastrophic air leak. Press-on filters: Make sure the seals on the filter and the airbox are clean and apply a moderate coat of waterproof grease. This is very important and helps to keep dirt from seeping through the seal.

Tip Always double-check your filter installation. Make sure your filter is on straight and clamped down securely.

14 Put your extra filters in Ziploc bags so they stay clean and are easily accessible. To protect your filters from damage, we suggest keeping the bagged filters in large coffee cans or a plastic storage container.

last updated - 2009-04-16 07:53:27

3. ALCOHOL RUNNING INFO.

The test for methanol fuel has been extensive over the last five years and a lot has been learned how to set up engines and carburetors for most ATV applications. The following is a list of tips that every methanol fuel user should be aware of.

Preliminary Facts Regarding Methanol

Methanol fuel is generally harder to set up for than petrol, therefore Sinister recommends its use for experienced tuners only. If you are not proficient in jetting carburetors and evaluating engine performance then it is best to gain these experiences with petrol first.

Methanol fuel is recommended for short duration racing only such as drag racing or short sprint racing, you will consume twice the amount of alcohol fuel for any given horsepower output when compared to petrol, so the range of your fuel tank is basically cut in half.

Because methanol is "hygroscopic" meaning it absorbs water, it requires special handling procedures. The number one piece of advise is to buy only as much fuel as you will use in a week, and buy the fuel from a reputable vendor who stores the fuel in sealed metal drums.

It is preferable to store methanol in a sealed metal container. Plastic is OK for short term storage only, but put the container on wood, not on the ground. Be sure to keep your container sealed at all times.

In addition to attracting water, methanol is corrosive to metals, gaskets and seals. In four stroke engines it is recommended that you use a "top lube" or methanol fuel treatment in order to combat corrosion. Many motorsports oil manufacturers make products specifically for treating methanol fuel systems.

For two stroke applications Sinister recommends a pre-mixed of 28:1, this will combat corrosion and sufficiently lubricate the engine. Check with the oil manufacturer before mixing your favorite oil with alcohol.

Methanol must be drained from the fuel system at the end of the day every day. This is especially important in the coastal climates. Because fuel tanks and carburetors are ventilated to the atmosphere the methanol inside will absorb water and corrode costly fuel system components.

Once the methanol has been drained from the entire fuel system you will have to put petrol into the carburetors and run the engine. We use a radiator overflow bottle filled with pre-mix, attach a hose from the bottom of the bottle to the fuel fittings on the carbs. Start the engine and run it for two or three minutes, leave the petrol in the fuel system until the next ride.

Engine and Fuel System Set Up

Because alcohol fuels burn so much cooler and slower than gasoline Sinister recommends that you increase the compression of the engine to maximize performance, there will be little or no advantage to running methanol on a stock compression ratio. We suggest first checking your cranking compression and then consulting your engine builder before running methanol, some engines will tolerate less compression than others.

Advance the ignition timing. Your results may vary depending upon compression ratio and the sophistication of the ignition system. Proceed carefully and document the timing change by measurement, either by degrees of crank rotation or by millimeters before top dead center.

Minimize flow restrictions between the fuel tank and the carburetors. Remove the petcock from the fuel tank and cut off the filter screen and the reserve stand pipe. Remove any in-line fuel filters or petcocks, use as large a fuel line as you can fit over the fittings on the carbs and petcock.

Check the operation of the slide, make sure that it opens all the way to clear the bore of the carburetor, this is particularly important with modified or bored carbs.

Put taller gearing on the machine. In our experience a methanol equipped ATV will pull a one tooth larger countershaft sprocket. If you run a 13T on petrol try a 14T on alcohol.

Procedures For Tuning Methanol

Even if you are an experienced tuner, you will want to read up on your particular carburetor design before you proceed with methanol testing. Some of the best information is available in the manufacturers shop manual for your particular machine, most manuals have excellent carburetor sections, and all of the procedures for tuning petrol will apply for methanol, just the jet sizes will be different. For aftermarket carburetors we suggest getting the Sudco/ Mikuni tuning manual, this book has some good general information that applies to Keihin as well as Mikuni products.

When you initially set up the carburetor for methanol err on the side of rich. Alcohol fuels generally have a wider air/fuel ratio tolerance for good power, methanol will make excellent power from a correct air/fuel ratio up to a rich condition, there is no need to "lean her out" in search of power as you would with petrol.

Methanol fuels are less tolerant of a lean air/fuel ratio than petrol and will detonate violently. Fortunately methanol detonation or pinging is quite audible, so if you hear any "rattle" you must stop immediately and richen the carburetor settings.

Tune from the bottom up. Dial in the slow circuit and air screw first, then the needle and clip position,then the main jet, and the power jet last. Don�t change the main jet if you have a problem at part throttle/ low speed.

Some words about the power jet. The power jet is essentially another fuel circuit in addition to the slow and main circuits, the power jet is throttle position sensitive and generally only comes in from 3/4 throttle and up. Many power jets have a screw type adjuster on them so you can vary the amount of fuel they deliver, turn the screw out from seated in order to increase the fuel fuel flow. The power jet will allow you to keep the slow and mid throttle settings clean/ correct and still allow enough fuel flow for wide open high rpm power.

The useful range of the power jet adjuster found on a carb is 1/4 to 3 turns out from seated.

When you test the methanol jetting be sure to make several passes before you settle on a particular main jet size and power jet setting, it will take a few passes for the engine to come up to operating temperature, if it doesn�t detonate on the first run it may do so on the third or fourth so proceed methodically.

The main jets supplied in a alcohol carburetor are sized according to the number drill index, therefore the smaller the number scribed on the jet, the larger the hole will be.

If you are running into a lean condition at wide open throttle (WOT) and you are getting no results by enlarging the main jet, you have reached the fuel flow limit of the needle and nozzle combination. (i.e.) The clearance between the needle and nozzle at WOT is too small to feed the larger main jets. The next step is to sand the last 14mm(9/16") of the needle to a smaller diameter, this will increase the area of the needle/nozzle combo and allow the potential for more fuel flow through the main circuit. This should put the large main jets you tried earlier back into the useful range. Put the needle in a hand drill, take a piece of sand paper and carefully sand the last 14mm of the needle to the same diameter as the very end of the needle just before the final bevel.

Good luck and safe riding.

last updated - 2008-04-10 15:34:40

4. AMERICAN STAR PRO SERIES A-ARM INFO.

I am bringing in these a-arms weekly now for most models - these are some of the best made arms i have seen for the price. Trust me when i tell you you'll not be dissapointed what so ever with any purchase from Amstar racing.

American Star A-Arms are manufactured out of Precision Formed, Seamless Aircraft Grade 4130 Chromoly One
Inch Tubing. All of their products are Precision CNC Bent and then Precision TIG Welded by their In-House Certified
Welder. The Bottom A-Arms are Bullet-Proof .120 Wall One Inch Tube with 4130 Chromoly shock tabs and the
Tops are .083 Wall One Inch Tube. This provides Maximum Strength and helps keep overall weight of the ATV
down. It you bend it or break the arm itself for ANY reason it will be replaced free of charge under Lifetime
Structural Warranty!

All American Star A-Arms sets include 5/8 inch .120 Wall Racing Tie Rods with 303 Stainless Steel threaded ends
which are TIG Welded into the Tie Rod. This means you will virtually never have a Tie Rod break or bend and if
you do it will be replaced free of charge under its Lifetime Structural Warranty!

American Star Pro Series Standard Travel A-Arms all take a Stock Length after-market shock and are fully Camber
and Caster Adjustable. Caster adjustment will allow you to make the ATV steer quicker or slower to your own
personal specifications and allow you to adjust for better high speed stability. Camber adjustment will allow you to
tip the top of the tire in so it does not allow the tire to roll over in hard cornering while racing. Additionally both
adjustments will allow you to adjust minor inconsistencies in the frame due to poor manufacturing tolerances or a
bent frame.

All American Star Pro Series A-Arms come with their innovative Heim Style Ball Joints. The Heim Joint itself is self
lubricating PFTE Teflon Lined and lateral load rated at 15,178 lbs. The installed Pivot Pin is precision CNC
machined out of 4130 Chromoly Hardened Steel. This Pivot Pin has a US Patent Pending, number 10,614/250.
(Please Note: Any other company using this style pivot pin may not be able to provide you with replacement parts
upon finalization of this Patent.). We highly recommend you buy this product from us to avoid non-availability of
replacement parts for your A-Arms in the near future. We have been consistently manufacturing this high quality
part for many years.

Only Top Quality parts are used on American Star A-Arms. All Rod Ends are Two Piece PFTE Teflon Lined (much
safer than Three Piece). Please note our lesser expensive competitors use Metal to Metal Heim Joints that squeak
when dirt or debris gets in them. We NEVER use these cheaper Rod Ends! Our Bushings are 100% Liquid Delron
injected. We own the mold and control the quality. It is the best Delron bushing in the industry guaranteed! All
aluminum components are precision CNC machined out of 6160 quality aluminum. We do not use or provide you
with a product made of poor or low quality materials. We only use Top Grade materials in the manufacturing of our
products.

We truly appreciate the opportunity to do business with you and ask you to please note that our shipping time is an
average of 10 to 14 days from date you place the order because of high demand on this product. You are very
welcome to call Sinister Atvs on 0151 238 1351 to find out if we can get it out faster for you. If we can, we most certainly will !

last updated - 2008-04-10 14:48:41

5. ARCTIC CAT 650 4x4 AUTOMATIC LE SPECIFICATIONS.

6. ARCTIC CAT 650 4x4 AUTOMATIC SPECIFICATIONS.

7. ARCTIC CAT DVX400 SPECIFICATIONS.

8. ARCTIC CAT JETTING SPECS.

9. ARCTIC CAT TYRE SIZE INFO.

10. ATV BRAKING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE.

Stopping your ATV is paramount over going fast, or you will only go fast once, which is why a properly functioning brake system is important. Routine inspection and maintenance on your ATV�s brake system is critical to riding safety, and your brakes should be inspected before each ride because over time your brake pads will need to be replaced. Depending on your riding conditions, brake pads could last for years, or need to be replaced monthly, which is why routine inspection is so important.

Beyond the brake pads, proper brake fluid level is also extremely important, and should be checked as well before every ride. Most sport ATVs are equipped with a front brake master cylinder mounted on the handlebars along with a rear brake master cylinder, which is usually mounted on the side of the rear sub-frame. The front master cylinder has a sight window for checking your brake fluid for easy inspection. To properly check the fluid, the master cylinder must be level, so this may require re-adjusting the master cylinder to determine the actual fluid level.

ATV Front Brake Master Cylinder with sight window for checking the brake fluid and the top can be easily removed with just 2 screws to add fluid or inspect the brake fluid
The Rear ATV Brake Master Cylinder attaches to the brake pedal and the fluid reservoir is mounted above it normally behind or the fenders or tucked along the sub-frame

The rear master cylinder is normally a clear small cylinder, which is similar in size to a small pill bottle. It is typically clear with fill levels indicated on the side of the cylinder, but again the reservoir must be level to properly determine the fluid level.

The fluid level may be fine, but the color is also important. The brake fluid is typically a yellowish / clear fluid, but if it turns brown or has a burnt smell, the brake fluid was boiled at one point and will not be as effective in the future. It will be prone to breaking down and boiling, which prevents the brake fluid from engaging the brake pads to stop your ATV. If you are an aggressive rider and have ever temporarily lost your brakes during a ride due to boiling your brake fluid, I highly recommend switching to a high grade synthetic brake fluid because they have higher boiling points than conventional brake fluid. It is very important that you drain out all the old brake fluid before switching to a new brand or synthetic because the different fluids can interact with each other and cause even more issues.

Finally, we have the calipers, pads, and rotors. These items work together to bring your ATV to a stop, so they all need to be inspected routinely as well. The rotors come in various shapes and sizes, but a bent rotor will not allow your brakes to work because they will press your pad back into the caliper and prevent maximum stopping power. A quick spin of the wheel while watching your brake pads or caliper for movement will quickly let you know if your rotor is bent. If you find your rotor is bent, it should be replaced before your next ride.

When inspecting your rotor, you will also be able to tell if your brake pads need to be replaced as well, and I suggest keeping a spare set of brake pads on the shelf for the front and rear because they will eventually need to be replaced, and it is better to have them ready for installation when the day arrives.

Rear ATV brake rotors are prone to damage from debris on the trails such as rocks and logs, so it is important to ride with a skidplate when riding in harsh conditions to help prevent bending a rotor

Besides, routine brake maintenance, over time, your actual brake caliper will need to be rebuilt or replaced, but considering the expense, it would be much more economical to just rebuild your calipers for many more years of use without the additional expense, so we have provided a step by step ATV brake caliper disassembly article for those do it yourself riders, which can save you even more money and gain a better understanding of your ATV�s braking system in the process.

In Review, here are the five major ATV brake system components and their functionality

Brake Master Cylinder - Holds the brake fluid and when operated by your brake lever / pedal pumps pressurized brake fluid to the brake caliper to make it operate

Brake Lines - carries the brake fluid from the master cylinder to the brake caliper

Brake Caliper - Houses the pressurized brake fluid and when applied, forces a piston out of the caliper to contact the brake pad, which in turn forces the pads to squeeze the brake rotor.

Brake Rotor � This item is connected to your front hub or rear axle assembly (rear Brake Hub) and is what the brake pads contact when pressure is applied to the system via the brake lever(s)

Brake pads - These two pads are made of either sintered metal or organic compounds and are held in place by two sliders in the brake caliper housing and provide friction from the force of the system to stop your ATV.

All of these components work in harmony to bring your ATV to a stop, so routine maintenance of all these items are critical to proper ATV riding safety.

last updated - 2008-04-25 20:39:25

11. ATV MAINTANENCE AND GARAGE TIPS - Pro Remedies Tips to keep your atv running smoothly

Shielded From The Elements
On a wet day it's a good idea to place foam into voids around the airbox. The foam will prevent excessive amounts of splashing water and debris from reaching the filter and stalling the machine. The last thing anyone wants is to end their day with a swamped quad.

Wheel Wise
If you're looking for added width or maybe even narrowing a machine to your style of riding, a new set of wheels may be the answer. Virtually every wheel brand offers multiple offsets to achieve the desired customer width. Check for available offsets before you make your next wheel purchase.

Reliable Thread Repair
I've seen numerous ways to incorrectly repair threads in frames and engine cases that have been damaged or stripped. There's a simple fix for this problem that doesn't require unsightly gobs of liquid metal or mismatched bolts. Installing a helicoil has a ranking of three on the difficulty scale and will allow use of the proper type and size fastener. Several types of these thread repair kits can be found in automotive part centers or at your local hardware store.

Bag It
Drilling extra holes in an airbox lid for added airflow is quite common. The problem arises during routine washing when water passes through these holes filling the airbox. To combat this minor issue, place a plastic bag over the airbox before installing the lid. This will keep water away from the air intake and ensure the filter remains dry.

Carpenter Tools Not Allowed
There comes a time when only a hammer will get the job done. A claw hammer typically used for framing isn't the best choice for mechanical applications. This is where a brass hammer comes into play. The soft brass carries the same impact without the added risk of further damaging delicate components.

Over Time
If you ever find yourself in need of performing some last-minute maintenance on your clutch before the waving of the flag, this tip is for you. Turning your ATV onto its side will keep the oil away from the clutch and allow a quick inspection or change of the plates without the necessary time needed to drain and refill the crankcase. It does prove to be a little more difficult working on the machine in this position, but when every second counts it may put you on the starting gate before it drops.

Perfect Match
It's only a matter of time before the paint on your frame, A-arms and swingarm begin to wear. As you already know, anywhere the bare metal becomes visible, rust will soon follow. Don't panic when this occurs, there's a way to keep your tubing looking new. Color-matched cycle paint is available from your local dealer for touch-up or a complete refinish.

Lock Down
When riding in the mud or wet conditions especially during subzero emperatures, vapor lock can occur when vent hoses become blocked. This creates a vacuum and restricts fuel flow bringing things to a screeching halt. By cutting the end of vent lines at a steep angle it becomes increasingly difficult for mud or ice to clog the tip of the hose. It's also a good idea to check the vent hoses for unwanted debris during routine inspections.

last updated - 2009-04-16 07:53:57

12. BETTER BLOW OFF TIP.

13. BOMBARDIER DS650X TECH INFO.

2006 DS650 X:

Proven Peak Performance for Sport Segment

2006 DS650� X Highlights:

Most powerful, stable, toughest sport ATV
Rotax� 650cc High Output engine puts out the most power and torque in its class
Incredibly capable sport-tuned suspensions with High Pressure Gas shocks with infinite pre-load adjustments
Reliability proven in the most grueling races
Available only as race-ready X-version
You don�t win the Baja 1000, Baja 500, San Felipe 250 in the same year unless you have a fast � really fast � engine. And you don�t win the Paris-Dakar rally unless you have a incredible durability. And you don�t accomplish these feats unless you ride a Bombardier* DS650 X ATV. And riders don�t have to be part of a top factory race team to get that type of performance, because the 2006 DS650 X delivers this level of performance and reliability right out of the box.

Consumers might not be taking their DS650 X out for a 1000 mile (1,600 km), all-out spin through some of the most unforgiving terrain on earth�but its racing pedigree ensures that busting through dunes or slicing through trails has never been so exciting.

Racing is about being fast, and the DS shines in that department with its Rotax 650cc single-cylinder mill. Liquid-cooling, four-valves, dual cams and dual sparkplugs all work together to deliver the most power and torque in the class. Plus, this engine has proven to be absolutely reliable in even the toughest conditions.

Tackling unforgiving terrain requires suspension performance and the DS650 X delivers in spades. Double A-arms in the front use High Pressure Gas [HPG] shocks to soak up the bumps and control the ride. An aluminum swing arm with a single Kayaba HPG remote-reservoir shock does the job in the rear. Travel up front is a full 12-inches [30.5cm] and 11-inches [27.9cm] in the back. To tailor the ATV�s performance for riding style, terrain and conditions, the front shocks have an infinite pre-load adjustment; the rear shock has adjustments for pre-load, compression and rebound.

Even the most punishing DS650 X owners will have no doubts about reliability, with a full compliment of heavy-duty components, such as 530 o-ring chain, tapered bearings, six-bolt sprocket carrier, and aluminum rear axle. Racing or riding at night? In addition to its dual lamp headlamp and auxiliary halogen lamps, the 290-Watt magneto can power even more.

The X-package features list proves this is a serious, race-ready ATV. There�s no need for another big-dollar shopping trip to get this baby ready for fun, as all these trick items � that�s more than $1,800 USD[$2,400 CDN] in value � are standard:

aluminum rims with reinforcement rings
lightweight aluminum front bumper
aluminum muffler shield
factory-fit skid plates for the A-arms and engine
aluminum nerf bars
steel-braided brake lines
tachometer
foot-peg extensions
rear and front shock protectors
handlebar guards
high performance grips
special low-profile seat design
aggressive Ohtsu R tires
auxiliary lights
For �06, the DS650 X is available in black with high voltage graphics.

BRP is a world leader in design, development, manufacturing, distribution and marketing of Ski-Doo� and Lynx� snowmobiles, Sea-Doo� watercraft and sport boats, Johnson� and Evinrude� outboard engines, direct injection technologies such as Evinrude E-TEC�, Bombardier* all-terrain vehicles (ATV), Rotax� engines and karts.

Specifications DS 650 X

ENGINE

Type: 652cc, 4-stroke, single, liquid cooled, 4-valves DOHC
Bore & Stroke: 3,94 X 3,27 in. (100 x 83 mm)
Torque: 57 Nm @ 5,500 RPM
Carburation / EFI: Mukini BSR 42
Starting System: Electric start
Transmission: 5 speed, manual clutch
Drive train: Chain driven / solid axle
CHASSIS

Frame: DS
Front suspension type: Travel: Double A-arm 12.0 in. (305 mm)
Rear suspension type: Travel: Swing-arm, 11 in. (279 mm)
Front brake: 2 hydraulic discs
Rear brake: 1 hydraulic disc
Tires / Front: 22 x 7 x 10 in 559 x 178 x 254 mm
Tires / Rear: 20 x 10 x 9 in 508 x 254 x 229 mm
DIMENSIONS

L x W x H (in): 77 x 48 x 47 in
L x W x H (mm): 1,956 x 1,219 x 1,194
Wheelbase: 49 in (1244 mm)
Dry weight: 495 lbs (225 kg)
Ground clearance: 11.7 in (297 mm)
Seat height: 33.8 in (857 mm)
Rack capacity (front & rear): N/A
Towing capacity: N/A
Fuel capacity: 3.2 US gal. (12L)
FEATURES

Instrumentation: Tachometer Indicator
lamps: neutral, engine temperature
Lighting: 1 headlamp dual bulb (30W), 2 halogen auxiliary (35W) w/ tail light / brake light
DC outlet: N/A
XT package content available: N/A

last updated - 2008-04-20 15:45:27

14. BRAKE BLEEDING TIPS.

15. CAN AM 400 OUTLANDER H.O TECH INFO.

The recreation-utility category is a crowded one, but the Can-Am� Outlander� stands out with more standard adrenaline than any other competitor. That�s because each Outlander model features the most powerful engine in its class, race-bred suspensions, the exclusive Visco-Lok front differential and other trick features.

The Outlander 400 H.O. rules the 400cc class in horsepower � despite giving some competitors a 50cc head start!

Outlander MAX model � Outlander MAX models are designed specifically for riding with a passenger. The longer vehicle wheelbase not only delivers rocksolid stability and super predictable handling with a passenger, but one-up, too. Ability to swap seat and rack extension box without tools makes the MAX model extremely versatile.

Outlander XT model � The Outlander XT models include popular aftermarket additions, including winch with remote control and cast aluminium wheels. Carlisle ACT radial tires, bumpers and more are installed at the factory. Buyers opting for the XT model save more money than purchasing and installing all these features separately. Plus, these items are covered by the factory warranty.

NEW for 2008

Restyled painted steel rims
Rear fascia, taillight and regulator cover
More comfortable handgrips
500 lbs. (227 kg) additional winch capacity (now 3,000 lbs/1,361 kg) on XT models
OutlanderTM 400 H.O. Highlights

400cc Rotax� single-cylinder engine � the most powerful in its class
Torsional Trailing arm Independent (TTI�) rear suspension with no scrub, 75% fewer moving parts
Automatic progressively locking Visco-Lok� front differential
MacPherson Strut front suspension for plush ride
Get-on-and-go continuously variable transmission (CVT)
Outlander 400 H.O. Key Features

Visco-Lok Front Differential � Progressively transfers power from a slipping front wheel to the gripping one � automatically with no buttons to push or levers to pull. Plus, there�s no wheel hop or driveline wind-up so the system is totally transparent to the driver and extremely easy to steer. Can lock up to 100% with no rev or speed limiter. Can-Am exclusive.

Trailing Torsional Independent (TTI) Rear Suspension � Trailing arm design provides more control and stability, especially in rough terrain, by eliminating scrub. Wheels move rearward as they move up and down producing a smoother ride than the competition, and does not steer from the rear. Plus, TTI has 75% fewer parts than competitive designs and significantly decreases tire wear

MacPherson strut front suspension � Compact design is lightweight, and provides precise handling and a plush ride.

Surrounding Spar Technology (SST) frame � Rather than the common tubular box, the SST frame is a single spar that is lightweight, yet strong. It contributes to the Outlander�s benchmark power-to-weight ratio and low centre of gravity. And the unique design enables the ATV to �ski� over obstacles.

Multi-function digital gauge � Gauge is easy to read with multiple functions, including:

Digital speedometer
Odometer
Trip meter
Gear position
Hour meter
Engine hour meter
4x4 indicator
Temperature/Engine lights
Electronic fuel gauge
NEW! Painted steel rims � for a more high-tech style 25-inch (63cm) Ohtsu H-track tire � Lightweight, great handling on base model 500 and 400

NEW! Rear fascia, tail light and regulator cover � For a more finished appearance; protects rear wire harness, connectors Inboard disc brake � Unique design reduces unsprung weight and helps centralize masses for more responsive handling. Also better protects against mud and debris.

Digitally Encoded Security System (D.E.S.S.) � Industry�s first standard anti-theft device. Electronic code in key must match code in ECU to start.

Front and rear steel racks � 100-pound (45 kg) capacity in front, 200 pounds (90 kg) in back.

Outlander MAX Features

Longer vehicle wheelbase � The passenger rides well in front of the rear axle for rock-solid stability and super predictable handling.

Stadium-style seating � The passenger rides above the driver, stadium-style, so they can see down the trail.

Passenger comfort features � A well-padded active backrest moves with rider. Raised footrests and multi-position handholds add comfort.

Convertible Rack System (CRS) � The passenger seat can be removed and replaced with arack-extension/totable cargo box in just seconds, without tools. BRP offers several accessories, such as a cargo box and touring box that interface seamlessly with the CRS system.

Outlander XT Model features

NEW! BRP XL 3000 winch manufactured by Warn. At 3,000 pounds (1.360 kg) capacity, 500 more pounds (227 kg) than 2007 model. Roller fairlead. Remote control stows in front storage compartment.

Cast aluminum wheels � Lightweight and a premium look

Carlisle ACT radial tires � Great lightweight traction

Steel front and rear bumpers � Heavy duty and a tough look

Handguards � Premium look and protection from brush, cold

NEW! Now available with all four colors; Green and Camouflage only available as XT models

last updated - 2009-04-20 00:31:23

16. CAN AM DS250 SPECIFICATIONS.

The Can-Am� DS� 250 ATV is BRP�s entry-level offering in the recreation sport category. With many features models in its class lack, the DS 250 inspires confidence and exudes performance and fun.

2008 DS 250� Highlights

Liquid-cooled 249cc engine
CVT transmission
Hydraulic disc brakes with steel-braided brake lines
Front and rear spring pre-load load adjusters
Meets CARB �Green Label� emissions standards
DS 250 Key Features

Liquid-cooled 249cc engine � Great, consistent power for the class, thanks to liquid-cooling, single overhead cam and four-valve head. One of the only liquid-cooled engines in the category. Automatic CVT Transmission � Continuously Variable Transmission is always in the "right gear" and delivers quicker acceleration.

Hydraulic disc brakes with steel-braided brake lines � Front and rear hydraulic disc brakes for outstanding stopping power. Braided stainless steel lines reduce fade while split brakes add control.

Front and rear spring pre-load load adjusters � Five-position adjusters on the Motion Control shocks make it easy to adjust the DS 250�s suspension to driver weight and terrain conditions. Full Lighting � Twin 35-Watt headlights illuminate the trail ahead and the tail light/brake light communicate the driver�s moves to followers.

Edge Design � Edgy, aggressive bodywork and minimalist style turn heads. Meets CARB �Green Label� emissions standards � Green-sticker legal in the state of California.

DS 250 Specifications

ENGINE

Type: 249.4cc, 4-stroke, single, liquidcooled, 4-valve SOHC
Bore & Stroke: 71mm x 63mm
Torque: 20 Nm @ 5500 RPM
Carburation / EFI: Keihin PTG 23
Starting System: Electric
Transmission: Automatic CVT, sub-transmission w/forward, neutral & reverse
Drive train: Chain driven/solid axle
CHASSIS

Frame DS 250
Front suspension type/ Travel: Double A-arm 5.5 in (140 mm) 5-position Adj. pre-load
Rear suspension type/ Travel: Swingarm, 6.7 in (170 mm) 5-position adj. pre-load
Front brake: 2 hydraulic discs
Rear brake: 1 hydraulic disc
Tires / Front: 22 x 7 x 10 in 559 x 178 x 254 mm
Tires / Rear: 20 x 11 x 9 in 508 x 279 x 229 mm
Wheels: Steel, sport
DIMENSIONS

L x W x H (in): 72 x 40.5 x 43,5 in
L x W x H (mm): 1,830 x 1,030 x 1105 mm
Wheelbase: 47 in (1,187 mm)
Seat height: 31.5 in (800 mm)
Dry weight: 429 lbs (195 kg)
Ground clearance: 10.2 in (260 mm) Center of ATV
Rack capacity: (front & rear) N/A
Towing capacity: N/A
Fuel capacity: 3.3 US gal (12.5L)
FEATURES

Instrumentation: Neutral light, reverse light and oil/temperature light
Storage: N/A
Electrical: N/A
Lighting: 2 headlamps (35W) w/ tail light/brake light
DC outlet: Yes
Colors Available: Yellow

last updated - 2009-04-20 00:31:42

17. CAN AM DS450 EFI SPECIFICATIONS.

Introducing the 2008 Can-Am DS� 450 EFI ATV. Its radical power comes from a Rotax� engine. Its ultra light weight comes from cutting-edge computer design and fresh ideas. Its features come from the input of MX racers.

It is the new benchmark for performance, handling and control � on track and off � thanks to the most power in the class, lowest weight, most centralized mass, lowest unsprung weight, and fully-adjustable sport-tuned suspension.**

DS 450 EFI Highlights

Responsive and easy to maneuver, thanks to centralized masses and unmatched power-to-weight ratio
At 345 pounds (156 kg) dry, it is the lightest 450 sport ATV
New Rotax 450 engine is the most powerful in the class
Lightweight ALTEC� aluminum chassis with dual-pyramidal frame � 13% lighter than the best-in-class competitor
Innovative R-Type� front and rear suspensions deliver handling, control, and feel
KYB� HPG aluminum body piggyback shocks with full adjustability
Wilwood disc brakes: 182mm wave-type discs with inverted twin-piston calipers, 198mm wave-type disc in rear
Performance features like racing kick-up footpegs, detachable headlights, interchangeable fenders
DS 450 EFI Key Features

Rotax� 4-TEC 450 EFI � This new engine is the most powerful in the class. The top-end of the DOHC single has DNA from the Rotax V990 which powers the Aprilia� RSV 1000 R sportbike while the crankcase, clutch and transmission are specifically designed for the rigors of offroad riding. Its free-flow design � with the largest piston bore, intake valves and throttle body of the segment � delivers awesome power and great potential for performance tuning. A sophisticated EFI system with superfast micro-controller optimizes performance at every rpm, compensating for both temperature and altitude; throttle response is instant.

ALTEC� aluminum frame � Aerospace-grade aluminum in dualpyramidal design is exceptionally strong and lightweight. Unique aluminum lock-bolt fastening system eliminates the need for welds. Strength comes from computer-optimized design rather than heavier or added materials. The pyramidal structure has been proven on BRP�s Ski-Doo� REV� and REV-XP� snowmobiles.

R-type double A-arm front suspension � The new R-Type forged aluminum double A-arm front suspension delivers razor-sharp handling, remarkable bump absorption, and confident tracking. The radical design with inverted dual-piston caliper � on the inside of the disc � enables placement of the ball-joints and kingpin axis deep inside the wheel for reduced scrub and steering kickback, as well as self-correcting behavior under hard braking. All this in a lightweight package with less unsprung weight than competitive designs for a better ride and improved control.

KYB HPG piggyback shocks � Aluminum-bodied shocks with compression and rebound adjustment and threaded pre-load adjustment. Features 9.5-inches (24 cm) of travel in front, 10.2 inches (26 cm) in rear. Lightweight, capable and adjustable.

R-Type rear swing arm suspension � Lightweight design dramatically reduces unsprung weight for quick response, exceptional traction capability and less rider fatigue. Cast-aluminum swingarm with rising-rate linkage, hollow Chromoly 4140 rear axle, extended-reach aluminum hubs and aluminum chain sprocket.

Wilwood� braking systems. Inverted dual-piston calipers � mounted inside front rotors � enable unique knuckle/spindle/A-arm design. Front and rear rotors� wave shape is computer designed for exceptional cooling.

Performance wheels/tires � Specifically-designed ITP� Holeshot� SR tires to get maximum performance from the DS 450 EFI. The rims are lightweight, yet durable, because of aluminum construction with rolled bead.

Performance ergonomics � Designed to give the active sport rider room and the right leverage. Narrow body and seat with smooth transitional surfaces, wide foot pegs and deep heel guards.

Performance features � Detachable headlights, interchangeable front fenders

DS 450 EFI Specifications

ENGINE:

Type: 449cc, single-cylinder, DOHC 4-valve, liquid-cooled
Bore & Stroke: 97 x 60,8mm
Torque: N/A
Carburation / EFI: EFI w/46mm Throttle Body, 16 bit
CPU: w/ 32 MHz clock speed
Starting System: Electric
Transmission: 5-speed manual
Drive train: Chain driven/solid axle
CHASSIS:

Frame: ALTEC dual-pyramidal aluminum
Front suspension type/ Travel: R-Type Double A-arm, forged aluminum / Kayaba HPG Aluminum piggy-back with adjustment for compression, rebound and spring preload / 9.5"
Rear suspension type/ Travel: R-Type swingarm, cast aluminum / Kayaba HPG Aluminum piggyback with adjustment for compression, rebound and spring preload/ 10.5"
Front brake: Dual 182mm wave type discs with inverted twin-piston calipers
Rear brake: 198mm wave type rotor with single piston caliper
Tires / Front: ITP Holeshot SR 21 x 7R-10 in 533 x 178R x 254 mm
Tires / Rear: ITP Holeshot SR 20 x 10R-9 in 508 x 254R x 229 mm
Wheels: Aluminum Polished
DIMENSIONS

L x W x H (in): 72.4 x 46 x 41.9 in
L x W x H (mm): 1,839 x 1,168 x 1,064 mm
Wheelbase: 50 in (1,267 mm)
Seat height: 33 in (831 mm)
Dry weight: 345 lbs (156 kg)
Ground clearance: 9 in under frame / 5 in under rear axle
Rack capacity: (front & rear) N/A
Towing capacity: N/A
Fuel capacity: 3 US gal. (11.5L)
FEATURES

Instrumentation: Low fuel, check engine, neutral
Storage: N/A
Electrical: N/A
Lighting: Dual removable headlights
DC outlet: N/A
Colors Available: Yellow

last updated - 2009-04-20 00:33:22

18. CAN AM DS450 PINK WIRE MOD

Can Am DS450 Pink Wire Mod

The Can Am DS450 has a built-in auxiliary fuel/timing map. This was put in place before the production units went on sale to provide the owners with the ability to make modifications to the engine without suffering from excessive leanness, which is a sure recipe for disaster. Whenever any modest performance mods are made, such as removing the air box lid, adding a freer breathing air filter set-up, or installing a performance exhaust system, this wire must be cut. Our dyno testing of the DS450 found that with the stock map, the engine went scary lean as soon as we bumped up the power output.

We used a very expensive custom controller we developed to allow us to modify the fuel and timing maps to stay in perfect tune with the enhanced engine output. We sent BRP a copy of our final map that was tuned for our free-air kit and full exhaust system. This added 6 horsepower and required significantly more fuel. When the production unit came out we found that the auxiliary map that was installed into the stock ECU was very close to what we had sent them.

Their version was slightly richer than ours and had slightly more ignition timing than ours, but for all intents and purposes the map was nearly identical. This bodes well for customers installing air and pipe kits as this saves the cost of an expensive aftermarket controller and the dyno testing it would take to dial it all in.

This is not a perfect world we live in and this map is no exception. While nearly perfect for most air kit/pipe combo, it is not perfect for applications that you will still want to use it for. As an example, if you only remove the air box lid you would be slightly leaner than optimum, but not lean enough for the richer map to be ideal. The solution would be to cut the wire and live with the slightly rich condition to assure the safe operation of your engine.

Add a free breathing air filter and adapter and you will find the fuel mixture much closer to ideal. Add the pipe and you will be right on the money. Add wild cams, porting, or mongo compression ratios and you might have moved out of the ballpark of the wire mod.

To be safe, a controller may be called for at this point, although we have sold a number of 14:1 pistons that seem to work well with just the wire mod.

Activating the auxiliary map:
First you must remove the plastic covering the fuel tank. You will find a large bundle of wires running from lower rear to upper front along the left side (see photo). In the area of your left knee (if you were sitting on the quad), you will notice a small loop of pink wire with a black trace coming out of the bundle.

That has been conveniently placed there so you can easily access it. Simply cut the wire, seal the ends, re-install the plastic and you are ready to go. Should you return the bike to stock at a later date, simply splice the cut back together and you will return to the original program.

last updated - 2011-01-05 20:34:12

19. CAN AM DS450 X SPECIFICATIONS.

In 2001, Jos� Boisjoli, BRP President and CEO, set a challenge. �Give me a sport ATV with the lowest weight, lowest unsprung weight, most mass centralization and highest power, and you have yourself a project.� This no compromise approach forced Can-Am� engineering teams to throw out convention, and rethink everything from the frame to the front and rear suspension systems.

The DS 450 offers the most power, lowest weight, most centralized mass, and lowest unsprung weight in its class. Plus, a fully-adjustable, sport-tuned suspension.

Six years later, the new DS 450� EFI was born. The four objectives were met, and more than half a decade of relentless dedication and passion rewarded. Now, Can-Am has taken the DS 450 EFI a step further introducing the new X package.

Responsive and easy to maneuver, thanks to centralized masses and unmatched power-to-weight ratio
At 345 pounds (156 kg) dry, it is the lightest 450 sport ATV
New Rotax 449 cc engine delivers 9% more HP than the best-in-class competitor
Lightweight ALTEC aluminum frame with twin pyramidal structure - 13% lighter than the best-in-class competitor
Innovative R-Type front and rear suspensions deliver handling, control, and feel
Wilwood disc brakes: 182 mm wave-type discs with inverted twin-piston calipers in front, 198 mm wave-type disc in rear
Extra features like racing kick-up footpegs, detachable headlights, interchangeable fenders
X PACKAGE FEATURES

Kayaba HPG piggyback shocks with preload, high & low speed compression and rebound adjustments.
Black aluminum rims with reinforcement rings
Aluminum 1" (25.4mm) handlebar riser
Aluminum taper-profile handlebar with square pad
Aluminum front bumper (number plate ready)
Nerf bars
Aluminum chassis and swing arm skid plate
Quick-adjust clutch cable
X package graphics
X package seat cover
ENGINE

Type: 449.3cc, single-cylinder, DOHC 4-valve, liquid-cooled
Bore & Stroke: 97 x 60.8 mm
Fuel Delivery: EFI with 46 mm Throttle Body, 16 bit CPU with 32 MHz clock speed
Starting System: Electric
Transmission: 5-speed manual
Drive Train: Chain driven/solid axle
CHASSIS

Frame: ALTEC dual-pyramidal aluminum
Front Suspension Type: R-Type forged aluminum, Double A-arm/Kayaba� HPG aluminum piggyback with adjustment for compression, rebound and spring preload
Travel: 9.5 in (241 mm)
Rear Suspension Type: R-Type cast aluminum, swingarm/Kayaba HPG aluminum piggyback with adjustment for compression, rebound and spring preload
Travel: 10.5 in (267 mm)
Front Brake: Dual 182 mm wave type discs with inverted twin-piston calipers
Rear Brake: 198 mm wave type rotor with single piston caliper
Tires/Front: ITP Holeshot SR, 21 x 7R-10 in. (533 x 178R-254 mm)
Tires/Rear: ITP Holeshot SR, 20 x 10R-9 in. (508 x 254R-229 mm)
Wheels: Aluminum, polished
DIMENSIONS

L x W x H (in): 72.4 x 46 x 41.9 in
L x W x H (mm): 1,839 x 1,168 x 1,064 mm
Wheelbase: 49.9 in (1,267 mm)
Seat Height: 32.7 in (831 mm)
Dry Weight: 345 lbs (156.5 kg)
Ground Clearance: 9 in (229 mm) under frame/5.2 in (132 mm) under rear axle
Fuel Capacity: 3 US gal (11.5 L)
FEATURES

Instrumentation: Low fuel, check engine, neutral
Lighting: Dual removable headlights
Standard Color: Yellow
X COLOR

X Color: Black
Specifications

Engine

Engine Type Rotax 450, DOHC 4-valve
Displacement 449.3 cc
Bore x Stroke 97 x 60.8 mm
Cylinders Single-cylinder
Engine Cooling Liquid-cooled
Fuel System Fuel Delivery: EFI with 46 mm Throttle Body, 16 bit CPU with 32 MHz clock speed
Starting System Electric
Chassis

Front Suspension Front Kayaba HPG piggyback shock with high & low speed compression adjustments
Front Travel 9.5 in. (241 mm)
Front Brake Type Dual 182 mm wave type discs with inverted twin-piston calipers
Front Tires ITP Holeshot SR: 21 x 7R-10 in. (533 x 178R-254 mm)
Rear Suspension R-Type swingarm, cast aluminum/Kayaba HPG aluminum piggyback with adjustment
for compression, rebound and spring preload
Rear Travel 10.5 in. (267 mm)
Rear Brake Type 198 mm wave type rotor with single piston caliper
Rear Tires ITP Holeshot SR: 20 x 10R-9 in (508 x 254R-229 mm)
Frame ALTEC dual-pyramidal aluminum
Dimensions/Capacities

Dry Weight 345 lbs (156.5 kg)
Fuel Capacity 3 gal (11.5 L)
Ground Clearance 9 in (229 mm) under frame/5.2 in (132 mm) under rear axle
Machine Dimensions (LxWxH) in. 72.4 x 46 x 41.9 in. (1,839 x 1,168 x 1,064 mm)
Wheelbase (inches) 49.9 in. (1,267 mm)
Drive Train

Drive Train Chain driven/solid axle
Transmission 5-speed manual
General

Lighting Dual removable headlights
Colors Black

last updated - 2009-04-20 00:33:48

20. CAN AM DS70 & DS90 SPECIFICATIONS.

2008 DS 90, DS 70 Highlights

All-new vehicles
Easy-to-operate 90cc or 70cc four-stroke engines
Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) means no shifting; Forward/Neutral/Reverse
Long-travel suspension
Cool styling reflecting the Can-Am sport quad DNA
Throttle limiter, full floorboards, day lights
Ergonomics specifically designed for kids
DS 90, DS 70 Key Features

CVT with F/N/R � Continuously Variable Transmission means the DS is always in the "right
gear". Riders can concentrate on the terrain, not shifting. Forward/Neutral/Reverse.

Long-travel suspension � Smooth ride and more control in the bumps.

Youth ergonomics � Riding position and controls are specifically designed to fit the smaller
riders these ATVs are intended for.

DS styling � Cool styling reflecting the Can-Am sport quad DNA, so the kids can look like their parents and heroes

Front storage compartment � Easy to bring along what you need or take home what you find.

Day lights � Adds visibility and look of a full-size ATV.

Full Floorboard � Ensures secure footing and protection from debris, bumps and rocks.

DS 90, DS 70 Specifications

ENGINE

Type:
90cc, 4-stroke, single, force aircooled, 2-valve
70cc, 4-stroke, single, force aircooled, 2-valve
Bore & Stroke:
90cc, 49.5 x 48 mm
70cc, 47 x 40 mm
Torque: N/A
Carburation / EFI: Carburetion, Keihin
Starting System: Electric & kick start
Transmission: Automatic CVT, Forward, Neutral & Reverse
Drive train: Chain driven / solid axle
CHASSIS

Frame: DS 90 / DS 70
Front suspension type/ Travel: Independent A-arm / 3.4 in (86 mm)
Rear suspension type/ Travel: Swingarm / 6.3 in (160 mm)
Front brake: Double drum
Rear brake: Drum
Tires / Front: 19 x 7 x 8 in/ 483 x 178 x 203 mm
Tires / Rear: 18 x 9.5 x 8 in 483 x 203 x 203 mm
Wheels: Steel, sport
DIMENSIONS

L x W x H (in): 59.8 x 35.6 x 36.8
L x W x H (mm): 1,520 x 905 x 935 mm
Wheelbase: 39 in (1,000 mm)
Seat height: 27 in (685 mm)
Dry weight: 260 lbs (118 kg)
Ground clearance: 8.3 in under frame / 4.5 in under rear axle
Rack capacity (front & rear): N/A
Towing capacity: N/A
Fuel capacity: 1.6 US gal. (6L)
FEATURES

Instrumentation: Reverse, neutral
Storage: Front storage 0.7 US gal. (2.7L)
Electrical: N/A
Lighting: Day lights
DC outlet: N/A
Colors Available: Yellow

last updated - 2009-04-20 00:34:17

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